Carol Fowler
Published: Tuesday, May 20, 1997

A restaurant called the House conjures up the image of a cottage with curtains. But the House is a chic modern bistro set in San Francisco's North Beach. Gray-streaked walls hold modern abstract prints and the room sports trendy hanging lamps above bare wood tables and slate tile floors. The diners, though, are cottage-neighborhood friendly. A baby cooed placidly in a portable seat beside a table for four when we dined there. Friends greeted each other. An early evening crowd gave way to a later seating that included one large party with more children.

The House is the creation of Larry Tse, who abandoned a successful career with Chevron for the grill and wok. His menu, a beautifully written one-page list, offers down-home American fare alongside Asian dishes. Some items feature Chinese-inspired seasonings, such as veal chop with shiitake oyster sauce or chicken breast with fermented black bean sauce. But mashed potatoes like mom used to make are served alongside entrees and Caesar salad is among first courses. In addition to the menu, five specials were offered. One of them was a grilled prawn salad ($7.95). A haystack of impeccable baby greens sat like an island on a large white plate, surrounded by spokes of honey-sweet mango and three succulent prawns. A sesame-scented vinaigrette brought together the contrasting elements. A few crisp strips of flatbread accompanied the salad, a welcome addition since no bread is served. (There's not an espresso machine either, an oddity in North Beach.)